The wilds of Cape Town, South Africa

Cape Town is a dramatic city arranged around Table Mountain with a long history predating the Portuguese arrival in 1488. The imprint of the Dutch is indelible. The Dutch East India Company established a halfway station back to the Netherlands from Asia in the 17th Century. While South Africa it’s not an adventure for beginners, the rewards of Cape Town can be high for those who enjoy active travel, cragy coastal geography and remarkable food and wine.

Views of the southern cliffs and Camps Bay from Table Mountain, Cape Town, South Africa.

Cape Town’s rugged geography at the tip of Africa has attracted outdoor adrenaline junkies for years. Harnessing the wind while kite surfing in Muizenberg or plunging into the ocean in a cage while Great Whites circle. It’s also a culinary playground for foodies fuelled by the varied cultural history. The mingling of Africian flavours with Dutch, French and Asian along side wine blends that are becoming synonymous with the Western Cape: Stellar Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage.

Dance with the seals. Seal Snorkeling in Hout Bay

Coming face-to-face with a seal underwater was amoung the more memorable moments of our trip. Hout Bay is home to a dense kelp forest where 10,000 Cape Fur Seals live. The forest completely protects the seals (and the snorkelers) from the sharks that circulate near the shores of Cape Town.

Wet suits and snorkeling gear are included in the trip and necessary as the water is brisk at best. After suiting up, trained guides take small groups limited to 10 on ribs to Duiker Island where snorkelers can dive and flip with the seals. Some companies which donate to the conservation of the seals are recommended.

Horseback riding along the beach in Noordhoek

The Dunes Racing Stables house 40 racehorses that they train on Noordhoek beach every morning in preparation for races at Kenilworth or Durbanville Race Tracks. Trainer and owner Mike Stewart believe the healing properties of training on the beach is a component of his success. The stables also offers beach rides for civilians on the The Dunes Kakapo Horse Trail, which passes the 100 year old Kakapo shipwreck. The horses are gentle enough to allow your gaze to wander out past the waves to spot dolphins or seals.

The stables are situated near Hout Bay and nearby Cape Point Vineyards. The views alone are a good reason spend the afternoon - a panorama over Noordhoek beach. Sip thier Isliedh, which is a floral combination of coastal Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon.

Surfing and Kite surfing in Muizenberg

The wind has its own personality on Muizenberg beach, so it’s a mecca for surfers of all breeds and backgrounds. Gary’s Surf School has lessons and equipment for a range of abilities. I stayed in an apartment nearby and would plant myself in a seat by the window early in the morning with a flat white to watch committed surfers rise like the sun and my four month old baby.

There’s a flag on the beach to let you know the level of shark danger, which was usually not a threat.

For kite surfing, head a couple shops down to Surfstore Africa.

Wooley’s tidal pools, Kalk Bay, South Africa

Wooley’s tidal pools in Kalk Bay

Kalk Bay is brimming with small boho galleries and boutiques. Take a dip in the rock-lined tidal pool that sits on the ocean, which provides a protected space for families to swim and discover wild-life together.

One of the best breakfasts in town is at Olympia Cafe. Fresh squeezed orange juice and egg dishes. It’s a place that serves the best version of everything. Pastries are baked in on-site everyday and the smell lingers till early afternoon.

In one of the boutiques, I picked up a distressed blue pasiley cotton for a steal that draps across our bed at home.

South African Penguins on Boulder’s Beach, Simon’s Town

Boulders Penguin Colony

Home to hundreds wild African Penguin’s that are increasingly threatened, arrive at Boulder’s Beach in Simon’s Town early in the morning to observe them quietly alone in their habitat among the rocks. There are colonies dotted up the coast to Namibia.

Cape of Good Hope - Cape Point Nature Reserve

Rugged shoreline and a chance to spot ostriches, eland antelopes, bonteboks, tortoises and baboons amongst the rolling landscape make this worth the hour drive from Cape Town. Visit the Lighthouse and mind the “don’t feed the Baboons" signs, which are everywhere…as there is a troop of baboons that live locally. They will rifle through your bags so proceed with caution.

The Two Oceans Restaurant has wide views over False Bay, where dolphins and whales may swim past.

Robben Island Museum

Across the ocean, the prison island Nelson Mandela was incarcerated for 18 years between 1964 -1982 lurks. Tours depart four times a day by ferry at Nelson Mandela Gateway and cut across Table Bay. Guides lead the tour across the prison island, some of which takes place by bus. It’s impossible to not be moving by being able to see Nelson Mandela’s cell and learn more about Apartheid South Africa which echos loudly for anyone visiting Cape Town today.

Table Mountain

Table Mountain is one of the most prominent geographical landmarks visible across Cape Town. It’s a flat topped mountain with hiking trails and astonishing 360 views. A cable car that takes you to the top is included in the ticket price.

Kirstenbosh National Botanic Garden

Founded in 1913, Kirstenbosh is one of the world leading botanic gardens with a focus on indigenous flora, which is renowned for being the most diverse in the world. Located at the foot of Table Mountain, the garden feels lush with dramatic views up the mountain. Proteas, which are the national flower of South Africa, are arranged together. A concert series is organised on summer nights, which is a unique way to experience the gardens.

Aquila Safari Game Reserve

There are 500 private game reserves in South Africa, most of which are located in the Northeast close to Kruger National Park. If you’re looking for a Safari drive without flying across South Africa, Aquila Game Reserve is a good second option. Aquila Safari Game Reserve is a conservancy that is between the Langeberg and the Outeniqua Mountains in the Western Cape, and spread across 10,000 hectars. It’s home to the Big 5: elephant, lion, buffalo, leopard, and rhino.

Aquila has luxury Afro-chic accommodation in the main lodge or private rock and thatch cottages with outdoor showers and porches open to observe the wildlife across the park.

Controversial, I’ve been on wild safari drives and it’s not extremely different in my opinion. In the private reserve, of course, there’s a higher likelihood of observing the the animals.

It can be done as a day trip from Cape Town, but early morning safari drives allow you to witness the animals quietly before the sun heats the day.

Where to eat - Tasting Menus

If you’re any version of a foodie, seek out the best tasting menus. Among the best: Foodbarn, Foxcroft, La Colombe and Grub &Vine. Considering the exchange rate don’t hold back. Some restaurants would take children at lunch. Book reservations ahead of your trip.

Stellenbosh

Hundreds of wine estates with world-class wine, Stellenbosh is a university town and the center of wine region near Cape Town. The vineyards are manicured and frequently child friendly. The most relaxing with a family is Spier. The tastings are relaxed and low-cost.

Where to stay

It’s important to stay in secure accommodation with available parking in South Africa. I would recommend sea facing apartments in Camps Bay.

How to get around

Renting a car in Cape Town is a must unless you have a private driver. There is public transport but it’s difficult to access many locations in and around Cape Town and beaches. I was especially warned against using it after dark. I’ve used public transport in other countries in Africa without a problem, but didn’t try it in Cape Town as we rented a car at the airport. Be wary of pedestrians crossing highways.