Austrian Tyrol, Alpine skiing — even for non-skiers

Seefeld-in-Tyrol is a traditional Austrian alpine village on a high plateau in between the rugged Wetterstein and Karwendel mountains near the German border. As the home of cross-country events during the Innsbruck Olympics, the remaining ski infrastructure allows it to continue as a cross-country mecca today with 200km of wooded trails. Classic alpine timber chalet architecture surrounded by narrow streets of restaurants and boutiques with mountain views, saunas and snow-lined apré-ski terraces - combined with a range of winter sports means it’s an ideal spot for groups with different interests and abilities. And it’s a better value than it’s glamorous Alpine neighbours: Switzerland and France. Located a 30 minute train ride through snowy, wooded peaks from Innsbruck - there is no need to consider transfers or cars.

History of Seefeld

Seefeld-in-Tyrol was a stop on the trading route between Venice and Augsburg transporting gems, dyes and spices onward from the Silk Routes in Egypt, Asia Minor and the Far East. The town and specifically St. Oswald Parish Church, has been an important Catholic pilgrimage location since the middle ages. Gothic in style, St. Oswald anchors the center of the town - according to legend Oswald Milser was given a blessing waffer and upon request fell directly through the floor. A hand print still exists where he attempted to hang on. Situated outside the center, Seekirchl is a domed baroque octagonal church near the slopes, which gives a nod to the East. A constant landmark while skiing in Seefeld.

Cross-country skiing in Seefeld-in-Tyrol

Downhill and cross-country together in one village high in the mountains

The Olympiaregion Seefeld has 40km of downhill slopes with runs for every level skier. Ski schools, private lessons and night skiing are all options. But many come here for cross-country. Cross-country skiing is gentle on your body and also a workout. It’s like being on an elliptical machine charging through the snow. Swap ski pants for spandex, because it’s about working up a sweat. I’ve had three knee surgeries, so cross-country allows me more control and minimise injuries. But I never thought I could find cross-country in the Alps, before discovering Seefeld.

Children’s ski lessons in Seefeld-in-Tyrol

Seefeld’s layout is condensed — all the winter sports are closely located so half the family can go cross-country while the rest can go downhill. Or snow-shoeing or ice skating or sledding. There are also 100km of winter wooded hiking trails.

Snow in the morning. Sauna in the afternoon.

We spend the mornings out in the snow. The kids join ski schools or get private lessons. Sometimes we watch from a terrace with a coffee, but equally it’s easy to go off downhill or cross-country skiing on your own. We add ice skating and sledding into the mix for variety. Snacking on sausages, schnitzel, roast chicken and kisershmarrn for lunch - frequently out on the terrace with a view of the mountain in the blazing sun and snow. We order glühwein if we’re feeling festive.

In the afternoon, we swim, sauna and soak in the hot tub staring at the snowy mountains. Our hotel had pools and a water slide on the top floor - all family friendly. They also had a separate adults-only sauna.

Sauna culture is taken seriously in the Tyrol. The sauna is where you go to clean your body and mind. It’s a scared space to relax. Often there are Finnish hot wood saunas and steam rooms scented with lemon basil or rosemary. There are ergonomic hot stones and outdoor pools and hot tubs. It’s appropriate to be nude and place a towel down where you sit. Many hotels have their own sauna, but there’s also the Olympiabad Seefeld which is a public pool with water slides and sauna if you’re staying in a private chalet.

Outdoor hot tub with a view of the Alps at Kinderhotel, Das Kaltschmid, Seefeld-in-Tyrol

Where to stay

If you’re new to the skiing and don’t intend on spending the whole day on the slopes, I would recommend staying in accommodations with a pool, sauna and fire place.

Across Germany and Austria, there are Kinderhotels which are designed for families - everything from amenities, meals and with activities for the kids and their families. Everyone has a family so the expectation are clear and it’s a friendly, forgiving environment.

Duck with a chestnut and wild berry au jus and poached apple

We stay at family-owned hotel Das Kaltschmid which has traditional Tyrol timber design, and may have been last remodelled in the 50s. It’s quirky and they hardly understood English during our first trip (which we see as a feature). They have open fireplaces in the common areas - and as mentioned (a couple times) the pools and sanua we love. If you go to dinner it’s always a surprisingly impressive parade of courses. Traditional fare with a cheese course. We stayed at Christmas and they threw the guests a Christmas party with drinks and a traditional round of Silent Night while lighting the Christmas tree (with actual candles). Other nice touches were providing all the children with cookies to leave for Santa and leading the families on a winter torch walk around a frozen lake in on Christmas night.

How to get there

Fly or take a train to Innsbruck. From Innsbruck train station, it’s a 30 min train through the mountains to Seefeld. Extend your trip with a weekend in Munich or Salzburg which both have direct trains to Innsbruck.

Trains are the best way to travel in Europe with children. They are clean and predictable in Austria. I would recommend applying for a Austrian rail card if you’re planning several trips.

Christmas in Austria

In the Alps, skiing at Christmas is shoulder season, but we had many good days. There was always snow for skiing. We added a weekend in Vienna for the Christmas markets, concerts and galleries and a few days at the end in Salzburg to see the castle and Sound of Music sights.

Other places to ski in Austria:

Kitzbuhel, Austria
Obergurgl, Austria
Ischgl, Austria